If you do not know what your skin type is or if you have one or more issues that make your skin problematic, you should see a dermatologist to help define what your specific skin requires.  Armed with the correct information you can purchase products that best fit your needs.

Now, you are ready to tan.  To ensure you get an even all-over tan and, in today’s economy get the most for your money, you should always do a full body exfoliation to prepare the skin for self-tanning.  This will prolong your tan and help to prevent the discoloration and flaking of an unevenly applied tanning product.  If parts of your body are a little drier, like your knees, ankles and elbows, try moisturizing these areas first.  This will prevent them from absorbing too much product causing an uneven tan.  If you are using a new product, you should do a self-test on your belly to see how your skin reacts to that specific product.  What works and looks great on your BFF may have the opposite effect on your specific skin type.  If shaving or waxing are a part of your skin regime you should do so approximately 12 hours prior for shaving and 24 hours prior for waxing.  You do not want to apply product on red or irritated skin.  Once you have completed the skin testing and the preparation you are ready to apply your self-tanner.  And let’s not forget the gloves no one wants orange hands.  Rub your self-tanner on in a circular motion while applying even pressure then let it dry completely.  Take a nap; turn in for the night, whichever you choose, just make sure you avoid water for six to eight hours after the application.

After a few days, you should lightly exfoliate the skin.  This will avoid flakiness and help the tan fade a little more evenly.  With only a few applications, you will become a self-tanning pro and be the envy of Helios and even Apollo himself.  It’s time for you to enjoy your beautiful, Beautisol “Glow” tan.

Remember, by choosing the self-tanning products that best meet your specific skin needs, you can now have a safe and natural looking tan from head to toe, without being exposed to the sun’s harmful rays.

Top 10 “DOs” of Skin Care

People of color account for nearly half the population of the US.  The unique genetic make-up of this group of blacks, Asians, Latinos, and other ethnicities, makes them particularly vulnerable to two specific skin conditions: pigmentation problems (dyschromia) and acne.

While better protected from ultraviolet radiation (UV) because of the increased amount of melanin (the pigment that gives skin its color), skin of color is a mixed blessing because the very cells that manufacture melanin tend to be more susceptible to inflammation and injury.

Almost anything that has the ability to injure skin – whether deliberate as in chemical peeling or Laser treatments, or unintentional as in an injury, excessive sun exposure, or acne – has an equal potential to cause excessive pigment deposition as seen in melasma (the so-called mask of pregnancy), freckles, and lentigines (a spot on the skin that is darker than the surrounding tissue and commonly referred to as a liver spot).

Acne can be treated with topical and oral medications including antibacterials, hormones and isotretinoins (vitamin A derivatives). Complete systems for this purpose are available from several sources: OBAGI produces the CLENZIderm M.D. Acne Therapeutic System while GLYTONE offers their Acne Treatment Kit for blemish prone skin – both of which are based upon two proven therapies, benzoyl peroxide and the potent alpha hydroxy acid salicylic acid.

In terms of strategies, Columbia University professor of Dermatology, Andrew F. Alexis, M.D., states: “We can block the production of melanin by using hydroquinone and other bleaching creams; we can block the transfer of pigment to the upper layers of the skin by using retinoid creams, which are vitamin A derivatives; we can remove excess pigment in the skin using chemical peels, and we employ sun protection to prevent increased pigment production and UV exposure.”

Here at DermaShoppe we are pleased to offer a broad array of treatment options. Currently we are featuring Perle, the new hydroquinone-free product from Neocutis which has shown good effectiveness in this arena. Our Colorescience line provides an especially attractive approach to sun protection and for a common follicular problem that affects a disproportionately large number of dark-skinned individuals called razor bumps, Glytone produces Serious Shave Cream with 9.8% glycolic acid and Colorescience provides a specially formulated post-shave shield called Real Menerals Cooling Skin Soother. Personally, I use the Glytone shave lotion for my daily shave, applying it with my Clarisonic brush which resides in my shower.

Most likely Irma has Keratosis Pilaris,  a genetically-inherited harmless chronic skin condition that usually affects the outer sides of the upper arms or the back, and occasionally the thighs and buttocks. There is no cure but treatments are available.

The small rough bumps or plugs on the surface of the skin are very common, occurring in 40-50% of adult population and 50-80% of adolescents. Variable in severity from mild to severe and often confused with acne, this condition can be aggravated by stress, is worse in winter and other times of low humidity when skin dries out – and can worsen during pregnancy or show up after childbirth.

Variously referred to as ‘chicken skin’ or “milk spots”, KP is due to buildup of keratin, the hard protein in skin, nails and hair, which forms and tends to re-form around hair follicles, necessitating on-going treatment.

Various treatment options are available. Many people experience very good temporary improvement by following a regular skin care program:

EXFOLIATION IS THE PROTOCOL – PEELING AND CALMING IS THE GOAL

In the shower, use a battery-operated brush or a loofa (Body Pouf) to gently exfoliate, using care not to aggravate the condition by excessive rubbing.

Apply an Exfoliating Body Wash to remove rough, dry skin and help minimize the red bumps  to reveal softer, smoother looking skin.

Apply a moisturizer/retexturizing body lotion with urea or propylene glycol (which softens dry skin), or ammonium lactate or an alpha hydroxy acid such as glycolic or lactic acid to soften the plugs and remove extra keratin.

Consider adding a type of Vitamin A (retinoid/retinol) to your program.

The specific program I would recommend to Irma is a Clarisonic sonic skin cleansing/exfoliating unit, and two complimentary products from Glytone: their Exfoliating Body Wash and their Retexturizing Body Lotion, or the KP (Keratosis Pilaris) Kit includes both products.

*Photo credit: rgsunico

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rgsunico/2322839800/

What’s a pouty, perky and commonly overlooked area of skin care?

YOUR LIPS!

Seat belts, helmets and sun block – we’ve become used to and accepting of all three. But more than 75% of people overlook an important and potentially worrisome area of their skin – their lips.

Christine Brown, MD, staff Dermatologist at Baylor University Medical Center, points out that while most people use sunscreen, they tend to forget their lips.  Further, she states that the balms and glosses we apply so routinely to the lips actually attract the sun’s rays, increasing light penetration through the lip surface – occasionally with dire results. The lips are not only more susceptible to aging from chronic sun damage, but are also more prone to developing serious cancers.  And “When skin cancer occurs on the lower lip it has the potential to be much more aggressive and metastasize to surrounding lymph nodes.”

Dermatologists advise that people should avoid wearing glossy lipsticks in the sun altogether unless they have a layer of sun protection underneath. “For people who are planning to be outdoors for more than 20 minutes at a time – they really should have a specific lip sun block with an SPF of 30 ideally,” says Dr. Brown.

We agree with Dr. Brown – you need to get a lip balm or a lip screen that has an SPF 30-35. You should apply it in the morning under any lipsticks or lip glosses and then reapply it every 80-90 minutes throughout the day just as you would a lip color.

Signs that you may have developed a skin cancer on your lip include any change in color or the development of an area of persistent flaking or peeling – both necessitate a visit to the Dermatologist.

An alternative to the use of multiple products is to turn to the new diverse array of protective Lip Shines and Lip Glosses which contain SPF protection inherently within the formulation. COLORESCIENCE carries just such a line – with the strong protective elements titanium and zinc oxides – together with an exciting collection of colors to match any skin type.

The inherent ‘colore’ payoff is both subtle and sheer, so Colorescience’s products may be used a stand-alones, layered over coordinating lip polishes, or used to top off other lip polishes for a watercolor appearance.

Remember, lip protection is as important as wearing sunscreen on your face and body.

Well, help is at hand – the highly respected Swiss skin care company, Neocutis, has just presented us with a breakthrough product for skin brightening and lightening – all done without the use of hydroquinone!

Based on the anti-melanin complex Melaplex (melanin is the substance that gives skin and hair its color), this hydroquinone-free cream promises to reverse the appearance of uneven skin tone and restore skin‘s luminosity.

Named Neocutis PERLE, and only available through physicians, this new addition to our product line is gentle enough for extended use and suitable for all skin types.  It addresses both existing and future signs of skin discoloration by:

• Acting as a powerful pigment corrector to help skin maintain a mottle-free appearance
• Visibly diminishing the appearance of dark spots and uneven skin tone
• Restoring the look of skin clarity and tone for a more luminous, younger looking complexion
• Continuously improving skin brightness and radiance
• Replenishing skin texture with Shea Butter, Jojoba Oil and anti-oxidants C and E

Perle is best accompanied by an SPF 30 sunscreen during the day. For brilliant skin: Renew, Replenish, and Rejuvenate your skin with PERLE!

“The eyes are the windows to the soul!”

Whether an English proverb, a Shakespearean remark, or a DaVinci observation, the fact is that the eyes do in fact mirror our inner being and are clearly an individual’s most distinctive feature.

Through the years, a lot of attention has been lavished on the eyes, often expressed in phrases such as Look into My Eyes – Betty Davis Eyes – Eyes on Fire – The Eyes Have it!

With that in mind, proper care of this dynamic and life-expressing asset is a must.

Composed of sensitive and somewhat thin skin, the tissues surrounding the eyes are particularly vulnerable to insult and damage. It can become puffy, dull-appearing and darkened; it can sag and wrinkle; it can take on a botchy appearance. The result is the appearance of tiredness, a loss of brightness, and the sense that we look older than we really are in years

Happily, a number of positive steps can be taken to reverse and even retard the changes I’ve described. Brought to us by some of the most forward-thinking, scientifically-based skin care companies, corrective and preventative programs for the skin of the eyes are readily available:

• Look for specially formulated lightweight emulsions for this most delicate and sensitive area of the face – hydrating and anti-oxidant products soothe and calm, relieve sensitivity, and reduce redness.
• Synergistic combinations of cosmeceuticals such as caffeine, licorice, red tea flavinoids, and glycolic acid de-puff, tighten, and brighten the skin around the eyes, while at the same time protecting against environmental damage and visible signs of premature aging such as fine lines and wrinkles.
• Peptide growth factors, hyaluronic acid and alpha-hydroxy acid-based products target damaged areas to Renew, Replenish and Rejuvenate skin.
• Specially formulated eye-repair combinations of Vitamin C, copper peptide growth factors, and substances such as kinetin and zeatin work to eliminate blotchiness while restoring texture and tone to sun-damaged skin, strengthening thin delicate skin to produce a more youthful, awake appearance in the eyes.

Recall Charles Revson’s promise of HOPE – modern skin care therapies certainly offer hope – and more. It should be amply apparent that eye care intervention is readily available, effective, and worth the effort. There is no need to wait. Express your soul. And remember, someone has their EYES on you!

*Photo Credit by tibchris:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/arcticpuppy/4791975420/

A treatable condition rather than a disease, acne is readily reversible and even preventable.  Frequently starting out as a blackhead  – a collection of oil and dead cells trapped in a pore which in turn blocks its duct and mixes with bacteria – the pore-oil-dead cell combination commonly becomes the inflammed red pimple frequently referred to as a zit.

Acne treatments are aimed at reducing oil, freeing the clogs, and lowering  the bacterial count.

An exfoliating solution of salicylic, glycolic or  alpha-hydroxy acid will clear the clog.  A benzoyl peroxide solution will dissolve oil buildup within the pores and keep them clear while at the same time working to lower bacteria counts by virtue of its antibacterial effect.

A good choice is the Glytone Acne Treatment Kit for Blemish Prone Skin consisting of an exfoliating gel wash, a 2% salicylic acid cleansing toner, and a 10% benzoyl peroxide acne gel.

My friends with acne personally recommend the Obagi CLENZIderm MD Acne Therapeutic System consisting of a 2% salicylic acid Daily Care Foaming Cleanser, a 2% salicylic acid Pore Therapy Solution, and a 5% benzoyl peroxide Acne Serum Gel.

An interesting newer concept of acne treatment and prevention involves one of the fastest growing aspects of skin care, the mineral makeups and sunscreens. Their mattifying quality (literally blotting the oil off of ones face) is certainly a valid consideration and the minerals titanium and zinc do so readily. But it goes further:  Recent studies suggest that titanium dioxide – which along with zinc oxide is a primary mineral sunscreen active – behaves as a catalyst or photocatalyst to provide antimicrobial activity, suggesting that the powder sunscreens might significantly benefit acne-prone skin. As well, a study in the International Journal of Dermatology recently revealed that zinc oxide helps the skin control the growth of P. acnes, the bacteria that causes acne in a way that rivals salicylic acid. Finally, both titanium and zinc  stimulate skin peeling to create room for new cell growth in a mechanism similar to the retinoids.

My personal favorites among the mineral products come from Colorescience and include their Suncanny and Sunforgettable lines of sunscreen.

Three easy steps can eliminate the guesswork and carve a path to fabulous skin at any age:

Step 1 AM/PM: CLEANSE – Wash your face twice a day with a non-soap cleanser (a syndet)   -  something soothing, exfoliating, or  designed for a specific condition:

• Age & Sun Damaged Skin:  Kinerase Skin Balancing Cleanser
• Sensitive Skin: Avene Gentle Cleanser for Intolerant Skin
• Acne-prone Skin: Glytone Exfoliating Gel Wash .

Incorporating a Clarisonic cleansing brush into your daily routine materially adds to the cleansing process, helps reduce oily areas, dry skin patches and blemishes, reduces the appearance of visible pores, removes six times more make-up, and significantly increases product absorption.

Step 2 AM: PROTECT – Skin loves moisture – it also needs protection – we recommend applying a moisturizer/SPF combination periodically throughout the day. For general skin protection we like:

• Age & Sun Damaged: Neocutis Journee Biorestorative Day Cream SPF 30+
• Sensitive: Kinerase PRO+Therapy Daily Defense Cream & Lotion with SPF 30
• Acne-prone: Glytone Sunscreen Lotion SPF 30 & 40

Step 3 PM: PREVENT/REVERSE/RENEW – Here we like products with antioxidants, hyaluronic acids and growth factors to resist aging, restore skin tone and clarity, and  firm fine lines. Consider these powerhouses:

• Age & Sun Damaged: Kinerase PRO+Therapy Cream & Lotion with Kinetin & Zeatin
• Sensitive: Neocutis Hyalis
• Acne-prone: Clenziderm by Obagi.

EYE CARE: Should you choose a more complex regimen you might want to add an eye treatment to reduce the appearance of under eye darkness, alleviate puffiness, reduce fine lines and wrinkles, and hydrate the delicate skin under your eye.

• Kinerase C8 Peptide Under Eye Treatment
• iS Clinical Youth Eye Complex
• Obagi ELASTIderm Eye Cream or Gel
• Neocutis  PSP-based anti-aging eye cream Lumiere.

Signs of summer sun damage:

• Pigmentation
• Lines and wrinkles
• Rough, uneven skin
• Dullness and dryness
• Increased redness & roughness

When choosing a sunscreen first look for the words “protects against both UVA and UVB rays.” Next consider the types: there are two, physical blockers and ones that are chemically-based.  Physical blockers are reflective (cause a rebound or bouncing-off effect) and refractive (causing light rays to change direction) – zinc and titanium oxides are examples of physical sun blockers. Chemically active sun blockers use materials such as benzenes, crylenes and salicylates to repel or absorb ultraviolet rays. Organic sun blockers are available as well but have not been proven to be effective.

Four manufacturers of premier sunscreens are worthy of special mention: COLORESCIENCE, KINERASE, NEOCUTIS, and OBAGI.

COLORESCIENCE, the innovative mineral makeup company whose PRO line is available only through a doctor, offers Sunforgettable SPFs from 30-50 in a line of physical sunscreens which possess many desirable qualities: They are very water resistant in maintaining 97+% effectiveness after 6-8 hours of water exposure,  are composed of 12% Titanium Oxide and 12% Zinc Oxide, act immediately, won’t rub off or transfer, do not sting the eyes, do not penetrate the skin, are odor free, greaseless,  and safe for men, women and children.

KINERASE, also available only through a physician, offers a variety of SPF 30 sun-protective chemically-based products, all of which are recognized industry standards with distinguished track records.

NEOCUTIS, the purveyor of  precision Swiss technology,  offers its Journee with an SPF of 30+,  while Obagi presents its Nu-DERM SPF 35, both of which contain the powerful chemically-based sun blockers zinc oxide and octinoxate, providing maximum protection from both UVA and UVB rays.

Clearly, the choice is yours and depends upon a number of factors: powder versus cream, immediate action or wait a little, physical against chemical. But the decision far less optional and much more compelling.

Protecting one’s skin is not an option – it is an imperative.

Be skin safe. Sunblock does spell safe skin.

*Sun Photo Credit by skyseeker: http://www.flickr.com/photos/skyseeker/45962658/